Hidden in Plain Sight

Azerbijan is something of an anomoly. A Muslin non-jihadist
democracy. Population of 9 million, 3 million in the captial, Baku.
Fueled by oil riches, with very little corruption, it has, since
throwing out the Communists, built a modern state. Baku is a modern
european city with infrastrcutre and amenities to match. I was quite
surprised.
. Like most countries in the region it has a long list of conquerors:
Romans-Germanicus, Alexander the  Great, Arabs, Ottomans, Mongols and
Russia, twice. Yet is is a tolerant and progressive state. The people
are one of the Turkic peoples.
. Zoroaster was born here and founded Zoroastianism in the 7th century
b.c.e. At one time there were more Zoro's than Christians. I guess we
know who had the better missionaries. (or armies). Part of the ritual
of the religion was fire worship. It turns out that natural gas
springs natuarally from the earth in many places causing flames on the
ground. The phenomena served one useful purpose in turning back some
invaders quite startled by the spectacle. The country cares enough to
know that there remain today 300 adherents of the religion.
. We know that the Nobel prize was funded by the invention of
dynamite. But, also--the Nobel brothers were working in Russia, came
to Azerbijan in search of mahogany, found none, but did find oil--a
lot of it. they were among the first oil developers in the early
1900s.
. I was further astonished by the National Literature Museum. What
other country has one?--I only know of ones in Columbia and Vietnam.
Here it is primarily poets (as well as other writers) who are honored.
the whole history of poetry since 400 a.d. can be found. Statues,
manuscripts, paintings, of over 100 poets from their tradition. Poets
who were executed for writing against rulers. Wonder why it is that
poetry matters so much in Russia and other countries in the area.
. In the middle ages architects and artists were not allowed to sign
their work. The largest palace in Baku was the palace of Shah Xalilula
I. the architect was Muxammed Ali. He was determined to be remembered
for his beautiful work. In an inscription on a wall above the entryway
is his name, and claim of architecture. But to see it you must use a
mirror.  The next time I don't understand a woman I will see if a
mirror works.
. Off to Georgia and Armenia.